What to wear under your graduation gown

The hood is the one part of the outfit nobody chooses, and it hangs from your neck. At the front it rests on whatever sits at your collarbone; at the back it falls between your shoulders. A buttoned shirt or blouse gives it a firm edge to settle against, which is why UEL recommends one. If you'd rather wear a dress or a top without buttons, UEL's tip is to bring a couple of safety pins, so the hood can be fixed in place if it starts to slide.

Because the front of the gown stays open, the parts of your outfit on view all day are the ones inside that opening, plus everything below the knee. Contrast decides how they come out on camera: a shade with real distance from the gown's own colour reads clearly in pictures, while one too close to it blends in and takes the outfit you planned with it.

One UEL detail shapes the whole outfit: on graduation day there is no cloakroom and no luggage storage on campus, and every bag is searched on the way into the ceremony hall. A heavy coat, a change of shoes and a big bag all need a plan before you leave home. The simplest is a guest who looks after your coat and a small bag while you're on stage.

That matters because you won't be sitting together. Graduates sit as a group at the front of the hall, directly before the stage, and guests sit behind them. The ceremony lasts around an hour and a half, depending on how many graduates attend, and afterwards the university hosts a reception for graduates and guests on its Docklands campus, a natural place for family photographs.

Then there's the month. The Met Office's long-running station at Greenwich Observatory, a few miles west across the river, puts January's average between 3 and 8°C, with around six frosty nights a month and only about 44 hours of sunshine. September is another season altogether: 12 to 20°C, no frost, and more than three times January's sunshine. Rain is a fair bet in both, on about ten days in January and eight in September.

Shapes that follow the body hold up best, because the gown brings plenty of volume of its own. A fitted midi, a tailored jumpsuit or a structured slim dress holds its line when the front swings open; a loose, floaty dress tends to vanish under the gown.

Buttons are easy to build in. A crisp blouse under a pinafore or with a fitted skirt follows UEL's advice to the letter, and a shirt dress does the same in a single piece. If the dress you love has no buttons, a safety pin on the inside of the neckline keeps the hood where it belongs.

For January, keep the warmth thin. A fine knit, long sleeves in a light fabric and opaque tights add heat without adding width under the gown. Put the bulk into your coat instead, then hand it to a guest before you go in. September is simpler: a lighter fabric, bare legs or sheer tights, and a light jacket for getting across campus.

Choose shoes for the stage first and the photos second. You'll cross the stage with the whole hall watching, then spend the rest of the day standing, at the reception and out by the dock. Block heels, a low heel you've already walked in, or smart flats all cope; a pair you've never worn is a gamble. In January, a sole with some grip earns its place on wet paving.

The mortarboard has to stay put, so UEL suggests bringing a few hairgrips. Loose hair, a low bun or a sleek ponytail all sit well under a cap; a high or elaborate style makes it harder to keep on. Keep jewellery small and fine; the hood already takes up the space around your neck.

A suit that fits is the strongest start: close at the shoulders, with trousers that meet the shoe without bunching. Charcoal, navy and mid-grey are the classic choices, and each one photographs cleanly. In January, choose wool and an overcoat for the journey in; for September, a lighter cloth in grey, stone or blue stays formal without the heat.

You don't need a suit to meet the bar. Smart trousers, an ironed shirt and a tie get you there, and a waistcoat adds shape if you'd rather skip the jacket. The gown hides your back and sides, which leaves your shirt, tie, trousers and shoes doing the talking.

The shirt is the piece UEL singles out. A buttoned, collared shirt is what lets the hood sit comfortably, and it gives you something to fix the hood to if it slips. White or pale blue is the safest choice, whatever hood you're given.

Keep the tie quiet: navy, burgundy, forest green or soft grey all work without competing with the hood. For shoes, go for polished black or dark brown leather in a lace-up or a loafer, worn in well before the day, because the reception keeps you on your feet long after the ceremony ends. Keep the shirt tucked in, so the outfit holds together every time the gown opens.